A A A A Author Topic: John's 1980 Custom (Read 446 times)

johnmck · « **Started on:** 22-Jan-18, 18:20 »

Well, after weeks of disassembly, I thought it about time to post my restore as I am now making progress on parts being reworked so the assembly can start.
I have had the wheels done in Cerakote and then I polished the rims (scotchbrite wheel, 400/600/1200/200 wet/dry and then 3 stages of cuting/polishing compound)
I am getting the tyre shop to refit the tyres.

johnmck · « **Reply #1 on:** 02-Feb-18, 08:56 »

I have my tank and side covers being painted in the two tone blue (as in the attached photo) and the painter tells me the formulas are not available.
Can anyone help?
He has suggested he needs a side cover to eye match the colours.
Is there anyone in the Brisbane area that has a side cover like these that I could borrow?
Thanks in advance.

johnmck · « **Reply #2 on:** 02-Feb-18, 14:02 »

Quote from: johnmck on 02-Feb-18, 08:56

I have my tank and side covers being painted in the two tone blue (as in the attached photo) and the painter tells me the formulas are not available.
Can anyone help?
He has suggested he needs a side cover to eye match the colours.
Is there anyone in the Brisbane area that has a side cover like these that I could borrow?
Thanks in advance.

Sorted! My painter has just located a tank in the exact colour I need.

Krisby · « **Reply #3 on:** 02-Feb-18, 15:30 »

johnmck: What can you tell us about the "Ceracote" on your wheels? I presume you had them done by some expert, but what process do they use? Can it be applied over existing paint/powdercoat or anodising? Does it need to be heat-cured? I understand this coating is popular with firearms, and I note that Casewell Australia is selling a similar product called "DuraCoat", for DIY applications. ...K...

johnmck · « **Reply #4 on:** 02-Feb-18, 16:16 »

Quote from: Krisby on 02-Feb-18, 15:30

johnmck: What can you tell us about the "Ceracote" on your wheels? I presume you had them done by some expert, but what process do they use? Can it be applied over existing paint/powdercoat or anodising? Does it need to be heat-cured? I understand this coating is popular with firearms, and I note that Casewell Australia is selling a similar product called "DuraCoat", for DIY applications. ...K...

Hi Krisby
I had them done by https://www.worksbywilson.com.au/
They blasted the rims and the cerakote is then sprayed on. His plan was to let them air dry but he had problems with the coating "flashing" from memory so he baked them at a low temp (60C). He does specialize in firearms. Not cheap ($950 for two) but I am really pleased with the results. I intend to keep the bike and ride it for years to come (hopefully).
John

Krisby · « **Reply #5 on:** 02-Feb-18, 17:28 »

johnmck:

Thank you for providing that link. Ceracote sounds interesting and I shall look into it more. Presumably it is more than just finely ground up porcelain tea cups stirred into resin? On the "Works by Wilson" website, they say that there is a Ceracote C-Series which is air-dry and an H-Series which gets baked on; so, you must have gone with the former. Sounds like a premium way to go, and it will be interesting to see how it holds up to abrasion and impacts with stones, etc, with the passage of time. The H-Series is claimed to be very durable.

Cheers,

Krisby...................

johnmck · « **Reply #6 on:** 03-Apr-18, 10:12 »

I haven't posted for 2 months but have been making progress!
Attached are photos of the tank and side cover.
Also one of the oil pump which had some interested debris on the mesh. There was more in the bottom of the block casing. Has anyone seen this before? They were not metal. The lighter coloured bits could be silicone as the wiring entry to the stator had a heap of silicone around it as the grommet was perished.
I have the final rear drive rebuilt as well as the forks and these are back on the frame. I will post some photos soon.
The engine is apart as I am having the casings vapour blasted. It all looks in pretty good condition but will have the head done and cam chain checked.
More photos soon.

muzza · « **Reply #7 on:** 03-Apr-18, 14:20 »

if you have the motor apart you should replace the cam chain , the oil pump drive chain and the starter clutch componants as well. If you do them now you wont have to go back in there again - if you dont do them a visit fro Murphy is guaranteed

82 Turbo & 2000 Valkyrie · « **Reply #8 on:** 03-Apr-18, 17:07 »

I reckon the read and black stuff is RTV not sure of the white stuff..

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #9 on:** 03-Apr-18, 22:05 »

Bathtub silicon.

johnmck · « **Reply #10 on:** 04-Apr-18, 08:10 »

Quote from: 82 Turbo & 2001 Valkyrie on 03-Apr-18, 17:07

I reckon the read and black stuff is RTV not sure of the white stuff..

What's RTV?

82 Turbo & 2000 Valkyrie · « **Reply #11 on:** 04-Apr-18, 12:29 »

smelly Silicon sealer - comes in squeeze tubes.

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #12 on:** 04-Apr-18, 12:42 »

Room Temperature Vulcanising.

johnmck · « **Reply #13 on:** 05-Apr-18, 10:37 »

Here are some photos after removing the flywheel.
It looks like the cam chain has been replaced as it appears in good condition with good tension.
It is obvious however that at some point it was very slack and caused a lot of damage to the Guide Plate and the Crankshaft Cap (not sure if I need to replace these).
The Tensioner and Guide look OK I believe (not having seen any before this).

Any and all comments and advice would be welcome and appreciated.

johnmck · « **Reply #14 on:** 05-Apr-18, 10:40 »

More photos

johnmck · « **Reply #15 on:** 05-Apr-18, 10:50 »

Quote from: muzza on 03-Apr-18, 14:20

if you have the motor apart you should replace the cam chain , the oil pump drive chain and the starter clutch componants as well. If you do them now you wont have to go back in there again - if you dont do them a visit fro Murphy is guaranteed

Thanks Muzza.
What parts from the starter Clutch would you recommend replacing?
Just the springs, caps and rollers?

J.C. · « **Reply #16 on:** 05-Apr-18, 10:53 »

Check the starter driven gear for flat spots where it sits inside the starter clutch.

I’d do the springs at a minimum. Any flat spots on the rollers would indicate that they are cactus.

Can you dig a thumb nail into the blade and guide? If they are hard and brittle replace them.

Seagrass · « **Reply #17 on:** 05-Apr-18, 10:54 »

John the camchain looks like it is over 50% worn (possibly nearly 70%) so it could be worth your while changing it as you have the rear cover etc off.

The damage is fairly typical in these engines and there is no need to replace any of the damaged parts as the damage does not affect the operation.

Mark (CXPhreak) will be able to give a more accurate estimate of how much the chain is worn as he has worked on a lot more of these engines then I have.

Seagrass

J.C. · « **Reply #18 on:** 05-Apr-18, 11:02 »

I missed that statement about the cam chain - I’d replace it based on how much of the hole is showing:

https://motofaction.org/motorcycles/honda-cx-gl/how-assess-cam-chain-honda-cx500-gl500-manual-tensioners/

johnmck · « **Reply #19 on:** 05-Apr-18, 11:16 »

Great advice!
Thanks JC and Seagrass.
Can you recommend the best place to buy the chain and guides?

johnmck · « **Reply #20 on:** 11-Apr-18, 17:07 »

Progress photo.

johnmck · « **Reply #21 on:** 08-Aug-18, 09:55 »

Motor ready to go back in.

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A A A A Author Topic: John's 1980 Custom (Read 446 times)

johnmck

johnmck

johnmck

Krisby

johnmck

Krisby

johnmck

muzza

82 Turbo & 2000 Valkyrie

CX PHREAK

johnmck

82 Turbo & 2000 Valkyrie

CX PHREAK

johnmck

johnmck

johnmck

J.C.

Seagrass

J.C.

johnmck

johnmck

johnmck