A A A A Author Topic: Phreaks phingy. (Read 9335 times)

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #75 on:** 03-Oct-16, 19:18 »

Some progress on this one. The block was found to have some corrosion in the bore when honed. Am instead using a bare 82 block that's been floating around my shed for some years now. It came with the job lot of CXs I bought.

The crank has been inspected and fitted using black main bearings. It is using the mystery blue David Silvers big end bearings. Have fitted NPR rings to this one.

Gearbox has been dismantled, cleaned, inspected, reassembled, fitted and tested to be doing the gearbox thing as it should. All bearings were found to be in good order once cleaned so were left alone.

Camshaft and followers have been fitted.

Am waiting for long 6 mm helicoils to arrive in the post so I can do the conversion to manual cam chain tensioner. Have new clutch springs but need to find the sheckels to order a new set of frictions.

doddsy1000 · « **Reply #76 on:** 04-Oct-16, 10:54 »

It's a little interesting about who's a fan of the manual cam chain tensioners & who (like me) will just pull the motor out "on demand" to replace the cam chain.

I must admit, when I did the Turbo cam chain I would have been more comfortable with being able to adjust it later if needed.

There isn't that much difference between a worn chain length & a new chain length.

But a big difference to noise in teh bike.

Seagrass · « **Reply #77 on:** 04-Oct-16, 12:38 »

The two main advantages in using a manual tensioner are,

1. More wear from the cam chain before needing replacement
2. No need to find a replacement auto tensioner (which are no longer available) if you do not replace the cam chain in time

Seagrass

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #78 on:** 09-Oct-16, 22:06 »

I spent a while in the shed today and installed the new OEM tensioner and guide. Along with a new chain of course. And a retarded cam sprocket. The block was converted to manual tensioner with a helicoil and red threadlocker to make sure the helicoil can't move. Thanks to Murray for this tip.

I initially installed the helicoil with the end flush with the hole yesterday ready to fit everything together today. I was out there redoing it at 2 this morning before I went to bed. When I checked the fit it became apparent that the insert should have been recessed by about 7 mm for clearance for some of the bolts plain shank so I ripped out the first one and installed another at the correct height.

This has repeatedly been tested on assembly to the normal 100 inch/ft I tighten these to so I doubt there'll be any issues.

The oilpump was fitted along with a new chain.

Am now preparing the rear cover for the new stator and mech seal. Being a 78 cover it needs to be hogged out for the new mech. seal. I also need to check the starter clutch over and hopefully just need to fit new springs - though I have a complete kit I'll only use what I need to.

I have the starter motor apart at the moment for refurbishment and the insides are actually pristine so will just be reassembled. The brushes aren't really any shorter than the new set I compared them to.

hamilton · « **Reply #79 on:** 10-Oct-16, 07:03 »

I have read about these retarded cam sprockets but have forgotten the details and advantages, are they suitable for both cam profiles ?

Seagrass · « **Reply #80 on:** 10-Oct-16, 08:00 »

Very nicely done Mark.

Seagrass

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #81 on:** 10-Oct-16, 12:10 »

I won't say where I got the modded camwheel from as the perpetrator has never seemed to make the existance of these known.

But the reasons for it would be the same as my own observations after doing a number of camchain replacements.

The fact is, a CX500 motor makes more power before a camchain replacement than after. I've noticed it a number of times. They ..... go gentle.

As the camchain wears the tensioner moves in and actually retards the cam timing due to the design of the tensioner assembly and the side it is placed on in the motor. Fitted on the other side the timing would advance. This movement of timing is the basis of systems like VVT, only these systems are active.

This gives the benefits of an old chain but without the obvious downside. The actual downside is the possibility that the chain won't be able to go through its full lifespan before replacement but should still last close to a decade in a fair weather bike.

With Rays ignition I can also fiddle with the ignition timing.

hamilton · « **Reply #82 on:** 10-Oct-16, 12:43 »

cheeky bugger!

hamilton · « **Reply #83 on:** 13-Oct-16, 10:19 »

Mark, if you walk 3 metres north you will find 3 meters for nought.

That's if you haven't got other plans for instruments, would love to see them put to a good use.
And also if you haven't got the front cover on the new engine yet [ for oil pressure mod ]

FatFurryGuy · « **Reply #84 on:** 13-Oct-16, 12:13 »

Quote

I won't say where I got the modded camwheel from as...

but if he PMd me, I'd love to chat!

hamilton · « **Reply #85 on:** 13-Oct-16, 12:21 »

I know who he is, but Mark would belt me if i told.
I wonder why he doesnt advertise them Mark considering what he does on engines. shy perhaps.

J.C. · « **Reply #86 on:** 13-Oct-16, 15:06 »

Quote from: hamilton on 13-Oct-16, 12:21

I know who he is, but Mark would belt me if i told.
I wonder why he doesnt advertise them Mark considering what he does on engines. shy perhaps.

Too much work to provide support for it as a product, apparently.

FatFurryGuy · « **Reply #87 on:** 13-Oct-16, 15:39 »

Fair enough

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #88 on:** 13-Oct-16, 20:00 »

Ralpho, those instruments can stay exactly where they are.

I'll finish that one as you started it.

hamilton · « **Reply #89 on:** 13-Oct-16, 21:43 »

Goodyoh Markus
but i think they would look good on my gopher, brmm brmm

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #90 on:** 13-Oct-16, 21:50 »

Redline's not high enough for your gopher.

VladTepes · « **Reply #91 on:** 01-Dec-16, 16:40 »

I have a Q about your battery box Mark. I was looking at doing something similar but came across one problem... namely that with my 'design' I couldn't easily get the piece in and out of there. Can you get yours in / out with just the sidecovers off and inner guard removed?
Or....

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #92 on:** 01-Dec-16, 20:54 »

Which piece do you mean Vlad? The battery or the whole battery holder?

Anyway, the holder removes once the sidecovers and liner are removed as you said. Goes in and comes out fairly easily.

If the battery, the right cover needs to be removed to release the earth lead and the + lead is under the left cover. The reg is mounted to the door which lifts off after loosening 3 nuts. Then the battery lifts out to the left after unhooking its rubber strap.

Am just finishing off the motor for this bike a bit at a time now and am down to things like thermostats, fans, shrouds and engine hangers.

Am hoping to fit it to the shadow on the weekend for testing and running in.

VladTepes · « **Reply #93 on:** 02-Dec-16, 13:13 »

Thanks Mark - I met the former. Don't suppose you have templates? Probably too much to ask for as you seem to be "winging it".
(A design philosophy I subscribe to myself...)

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #94 on:** 02-Dec-16, 15:39 »

Sorry Vlad, more an imagineerer than a planner.

I ascribe to the principle that all plans go out the window as soon as you get punched in the face.

Onetrack · « **Reply #95 on:** 02-Dec-16, 16:00 »

There is the Spike Milligan plan

"We don't have a plan, therefore nothing can possibly go wrong."

"Young" Les F

VladTepes · « **Reply #96 on:** 05-Dec-16, 12:11 »

I hear ya !

VladTepes · « **Reply #97 on:** 05-Dec-16, 12:36 »

Quote from: CX PHREAK on 14-Aug-16, 19:14

Have now made and welded in the frames rear arch/ mudgaurd support and modified the plastic liner to suit the application. The liner has had the rear cut off before the rise for the seat mount and then another section plastic welded in to make the rear the length it was meant to be. Actually, I added back 2 bits when the rear mounting holes were found to be too close to the edge.

The platform for the CDI plugs was in the way so the rear half was removed and a filler piece added. Ditto the protrusion on the left side for a wire guide to mount to.

Any photos / more info on this process?

CX PHREAK · « **Reply #98 on:** 05-Dec-16, 12:41 »

On another note, as of yesterday the thingys rebuilt motor is now running in the blue shadow as of Saturday. After changing the moly contaminated oil and filter, head retorques, tappet adjustments etc. it took its maiden flight yesterday and runs beautifully. Very quiet mechanically too - but should be as all the usual suspects for noise have been attended to. It even has NOS upper rockers and new rocker pins {courtesy of 81 custom through the rocker pin buyback program.}

I'll make a post with some pics on the mods to this motor - but it's been ported and port matched to the mikuni intakes. Shame it's running keihins for shakedown.

Vlad, just saw your latest post. I will add more photos to this thread but for now you might find what you want on the bikes build thread on the US forum.

Phreaks thingy.

VladTepes · « **Reply #99 on:** 05-Dec-16, 13:30 »

Nope, but no hurry

My q is specific to how to do the plastic mods/welding/filling....